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Repair Mr.Coffee (IDS77) Thermal Fuse

19 comments
If you haven't bought this product yet, then STOP don't buy it!!

If you, however, have bought it and broke it in the first run then continue.

Mine simply stopped working right on the day I bought it, in fact this is the second Mr. Coffee grinder I bought that day. May be I was trying to grind too much, but as a consumer device I'd expect it to "auto shut off" if it's too hot, rather burn itself.

The good news is, it only burns a thermal fuse, which is fairly easy to replace if you get under the hood. Once you remove the grinder cup you can see the following,

Just remove the three plastic hole cover knobs, which you can simply pull out using tweezers or by lifting one side with a sharp point like that of a knife. Once removed these knobs look as shown below.

Get a small flat head screw driver and remove the three screws. Then you can simply take out the motor compartment. You'll need to pop the button panel to find a bolt holding the circuit board. You'll be able to figure out hopefully.

Once the motor is out you can see the thermal fuse wrapped inside the yellow tape covering the motor winding as shown. I cut the pins of the fuse and it's shown left to the motor. 

Now it's time to find a replacement. The original fuse that's there in this one comes from China and here's a link I could find on it. A close up picture is given below.

I found several options in ebay, but either they had low ampere rating or too high functioning temperature. Also, it'd take more than a week to arrive. In the end, I decided to go with an alternative one from RadioShack, which in fact is cheaper (~$1.40) than options from ebay.

If you need some instructions on how to solder these look at this. This one has a high ampere rating, but from what I read having a higher ampere rating than the one used does no harm. It's the temperature that's important.

Once soldered, the unit is alive again. This time I will not grind coffee continuously though :)





19 comments :

  1. thanks helpful post.

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  2. thanks very helpful

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  3. Really good post, thanks for taking the time to write it up. But i should say WARNING Having a higher ampere rating is the number one cause of electrical fires. If the wires burn up at 15 amps and u have a 20 amp fuse or breaker, the breaker will never trip and the wires will burn if there's ever an overcurrent

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  4. Thanks much Very Helpful!! I just removed the thermal fuse and bypassed it with a direct solder joint ... Grinder works fine and if the motor burns up who cares? I was gonna throw it away anyway 😉

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  5. Thanks so much Very Helpful !! I just removed the thermal fuse and bypassed it with direct solder joint. If the motor burns out who cares? I was gonna throw it away anyway 😉

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  6. Thank you for helpful tips, in my case, instead of thermal fuse was a piece of solder diameter about 1 mm and about 30 mm long, it melted off the clamp on one side. I managed to loose the clamp, put the loose end inside, squeezed, so it come clamped again, and it worked. I wonder how long will it live - not a reliable design for starters.

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  7. Thank you for helpful tips, in my case instead of thermal fuse was a piece of solder diameter about 1 mm and about 30 mm long, it melted of the clamp on one side. I managed to loose the clamp, put the loose end inside, squeezed, so it come clamped again, and it worked. I wonder how long will it live - not a reliable design for starters.

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  8. How do you even remove those?! I just can't take them off

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    1. Remove what - the fuse?

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    2. The covers for the screws, but I got them (got messy but yeah it worked) I wanted to take them off with less force so that I wouldn't damage the cover but there was no other way.

      One question more, did the new fuse you bought worked for a long time or was it just the same short period of life as the stock one?

      Also thanks for the post, it is really helpful.

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    3. Jun, yes it might be a bit hard to take the cover off.

      The fuse, in my one, was placed touching against the coil of the motor and was wrapped with that yellow tape you see in the pictures. I had to cut open the wrapping to take the fuse out.

      How long it'll last depends on how hot your coffee grinder gets. If you grind for something like 10 minutes then this will blow.

      Glad this helped.

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  9. Sorry, but where is the thermal fuse? Sorry if it obvious, but I had to ask

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  10. thanks man i'd of never found that! looks like a trip to radioshack. no problems with the new fuse you installed?

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  11. thanks, i'd never of found that under the tape. looks like i'm off to radio shack. So no problems with the fuse you installed?

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    1. Noop, runs OK so far. Just make sure not to grind too much to avoid overheating.

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  12. I just came across your post because ours suddenly stopped grinding. Did yours still turn on with the bad thermal fuse? We've made sure it's locked, just won't grind.

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    1. No, with the bad thermal fuse it did not start. After replacing it with the one mentioned in the post, it worked fine and is still doing great after several years.

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  13. Can you remember de characteristics of the fuse?... Could be something like this?: uxcell 250V 10A 121 Degree Protective Electric Electronic Thermal Fuse

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    1. Here's an ebay link to the original it had https://www.ebay.com/i/181862085247?chn=ps. I couldn't find this at the time, so I got one with similar temperature rating but had 10A current rating.

      As long as you don't grind too much and don't leave it unattended then I think it's fine.

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